Vamos arriba El Salvador.....

Como en los mares su color Olvida ya lo que paso Vamos arriba el salvador. Sigue adelante con valor Que luego viene lo mejor Con muchas ganas con amor Vamos arriba el salvador.....

"ARRIBA EL SALVADOR" - Los Hermanos Flores

    It was spring of 2023 and I had an unexpected long weekend to go travel somewhere, 4 days to be exact. Not quite long enough for a big trip, but plenty for a great short trip. I am trying to visit every country in central America and immediately thought about which places would be a convenient flight from Phoenix where I didn't lose a day going to and from so the 4 day trip would be more or less 4 full days. I also have recently gotten Gold Status with United and am making a slight effort to keep the status, from there it was easy... A place long on my list to visit. El Salvador. 

      Unlike many places in Central America I have been to I actually had a few friends that had already been to El Salvador. Everyone recommended skipping the city and heading straight to the beaches, but I felt inclined to visit the city so left my last night and day open to see the capital... But I arrived in Playa Tunco, and everything changed. This place overwhelmed me, it took my heart, I decided really after a few hours that I'd be staying beach side the whole time instead. I don't regret it in the least, and can't wait to go back! Here's my go to travel advice for seeing this beautiful part of this beautiful country!

• Although I am a huge fan of Airbnb, El Salvador is not there yet with Airbnb's, the best beach front spots were all hotels, definitely more expensive than staying in the capital, but still very reasonable compared to US prices.
  
  

  

  Befriending a local
  

  
  
• Uber will get you to and from the beach for about $40 each at the time of writing
  
  
• US Dollar is the currency, there was a big talk about Crypto being the national currency and it even says it at many ATMs and Banks, but I however did not find a single vendor that accepted Crypto. 
  
  
• Day one will be used to settle down and get a quick lay of the land, you can walk the whole tourist neighborhood in about 30 minutes, it is a small beach town, and honestly maybe the best small beach town I have ever been to, go before the high rises get built up.
  
             
  
  
• Sunset there is a cultural gathering, I get the feeling employers may let their workers shut business down for a quick 15 minutes, because when you watch the sunset everyone is there, but its a small town, so not over crowded, just simply beautiful, and a great time to pass with friends.
  
  

  

  First Sunset
  

  
  

  

  The signature rocks
  
  

• Should you decide  to partake in the nightlife there are many great beach front bars, a few bars on the strip too but when it gets later I'd go to the beach ones. You can sit beach side with bottle service for $20-$50.
  
                                         
  
                   
  
  
• Day two I opted for the beaches, some surfing, and checking out the town.
  
  
                                   
                                                                         
• Local food and drink? Yes please! 
   
  
  
  
• It was time for an excursion next, for only $40 I booked a hiking tour to the Tamanique Waterfalls. I booked it when I arrived, and it is a little cheaper to do so, but based on how great it was, I'd recommend booking in advance in case it sells out. 

• My last day was meant to go to the city, but I ended up meeting some really great local people and instead decided to spend the last day on the beach. We did a whole lot of nothing, but bonding with the people, learning about their culture, drinking some cheap beer, eating some great food, and watching one last sunset with new friends was better than any city tour I could possible imagine.

      I'll note safety because El Salvador is certainly not the safest place, but I had zero issues in the beach area of the trip, the Government has made a huge effort to make it safer and police and military were seen everywhere. Only safety concern is beer and shots are cheap, so you can get a hangover easy if you don't watch your drinking! Ok kidding, but it was safe. I went into this country thinking it was going to be a box to check off, a one and done like many amazing trips are. But as I started the article, it stole my heart. It's not a place that there's a million things to do, but it is a place to find peace for a few days, and a little bit of adventure of course too. Safe to say, I would definitely go back.

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Beaches, Beers, and Cold War Bunkers in Albania

      For travel in Covid times I have had a new saying, "We no longer go where we want to go, we go where we are allowed to go." From the dawn of the pandemic to up until recently Albania was open borders with no restrictions, that recently changed but myself and two friends were lucky enough to visit beforehand. While I can honestly say Albania was never a thought for me to travel to, I can now honestly say I'd gladly go back tomorrow if I could, and may even want to spend some time living there some day. So while things don't always go as planned with travel and life, we make the best of it.

                                            

     In August of 2021 after visiting Lebanon I decided it would be convenient to add this small European country to my visit. I wanted to spend some time on the beaches since it was August, but I also wanted to experience some culture, nature and history. All of which were easy to plan, and even easier when I decided to rent a car to help out and keep it a good budget. So here's my tips on Albania for the budget traveler:

Beaches: You are going to read all about Sarandë which I imagine is absolutely fantastic, but it is also a significant drive from Tirana which is a likely starting point unless you are coming from Italy or the Balkans. I decided since there was so much coastline to see what else I could find, and I found Shëngjin. A small beach town less than a two hour drive from Tirana. I know the beach is not as luxurious as Sarandë, but my Airbnb with an ocean balcony was only $40 a night, that part was pretty nice. I would say it had more of an old beach classic feel rather than a new wave feel. The food was good, and the night life was lively. The water was smooth swimming and locals are friendly. I parked in a big lot across my Airbnb for only 3 euros a day. 

                      

Castles: I'm a big fan of castles and seeing history, and I really wanted to visit Kruja and Petrela castles, but the tours were a bit expensive and seemed a little long for my liking, as some of the castles can be really small and don't really need a full 8 hours to tour, so instead after mapping it out I opted to drive, this made it easy to self tour, and almost free. I paid something to enter Kruja but it was so cheap I don't remember how much it was. Using the map I figured I landed early I could drive and see both castles the same day, and make it to Shëngjin with ample time to enjoy most of the afternoon there. The driving was not bad but to each some advice from YouTube and friends in Europe here's my driving tips...

Wooden guns in museum

Driving: First you DO need an international drivers license, the rental car company likely won't ask but if you get pulled over you will be in trouble without one. I recommend renting from a company local to your country in case an issue arises down the road. As always with rental cars, I do a phone video when I pick it up and drop it off. Now as for driving, the city is a bit chaotic and I never quite figured out how they use roundabouts (people on the inside lanes seemed to always wanna exit), but I never felt like the vehicle was in danger. The freeways are relatively traffic free but not always clearly marked lanes which could be an issue at night. At times since the freeways aren't totally developed you will drive thru some small towns rather than on the big roads. As a traveler this was nice, as a local it would frustrate me. The biggest advice to pass on I got was getting into the old cities, don't drive in them. They were designed for horses and carriages, not for your cars. Cobble stone streets, hundreds of tourists, no easy ways to turn around. As you approach the old cities, in my case Kruja, look for easy free street parking outside the city or pay a small fee as I did. 

Tirana: Tirana is VERY easy to get around, most of the major sites are in the small downtown area except Dajti mountain which is well worth a visit while at the Bunkart museum, unknown to me from lack of planning you can paraglide down!

              

A lot more fun than the cable car up, although I can't complain, it was still scenic. Bunkart 1 and Bunkart 2 are somewhat similar, so if you are limited on time you can cut one if you must. Nightlife is definitely best in the Bloku neighborhood, as was dining.

General Albania Tips: 

There is a lot more to do just outside of Tirana if you have time, we decided to do a tour of the Erzen caves and river to throw some nature in. But Berat and of course as mentioned Sarandë are good spots.

Hiking the mountains

English is widely spoken and where it was Italian helped me a lot.

Albania is a budget travelers paradise, everything was super cheap, our last meal at a fancy restaurant was $50 for three people, it included a bottle of wine, 3 entrees, 3 appetizers, and espressos. 

                  

If you are on a long journey in Europe and want a central location, Tirana or Albania could make a great base. Imagine working from home Monday thru Friday at your apartment in Tirana then going anywhere you want in Europe with easy access to the airport.

Covid stuff, hopefully one day I don't write about it... But for now.... The airport has a lab onsite to test for outgoing flights, the test takes about 2 hours, and the line takes at least an hour to get the test so plan appropriately. There are two restaurants there to chill while you wait for your results. 

Albanian Nights

The Bloku night life is fun, a little too much fun, the last night me and my friends did a bar crawl enjoying cheap beers, great food, and cocktails! At the end we made it back to their hotel where we indulged in some more local beers. Around 1am, I headed to my Airbnb and finished the bottle of wine off I had. I had noticed Taxi's were always on the same spot and had no problem finding one at 2am to get me to the airport, but the hangover the next day on the Vienna Airport connection was definitely a problem! Not Albania's fault!

Sunset over Shenjin

     While Albania isn't a top renown destination I feel like this is more of a reason to visit there while you still can! I'm grateful for my time there, and although as a visit I wouldn't repeat it, I would certainly consider living there due to the low cost and peaceful atmosphere I experienced in Tirana. An unplanned stop on the world map that I will forever be grateful for!

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Beirut, Lebanon: One Year Later

Site of the 2020 Explosion

     August 4th, 2020, I remember hearing, reading, and seeing the tragic video of the Beirut Explosion on the pier. This was at a peak time in Covid, when the world was suffering. I could imagine from my experience in New York City on 9/11 what the survivors of Beirut were experiencing. I truly felt for them, but didn't imagine I'd be going there anytime soon. But as with all things in Covid Times, we don't go necessarily where we want to go, we go where we are allowed to go.

First day arriving on the pier 

      I had most of August off and was searching the internet for where I could go and fit into the restrictions without too much hassle and of course at the right price. Through a chaotic equation of things to do, price, borders, travel restrictions, and tests, I had decided that I would begin a journey in Lebanon, followed by Albania, and finished off with a wonderful morning in Vienna, the last one never happening because of an all too fun night in Albania!

    After I left the middle east in 2017 I thought I was more or less done with the region. I have been to 7 or 8 countries there and although I loved every one, I felt I had seen enough of the region and there was too many other places in the world I needed to give attention to.... But then of course Covid changed all that. I'm not at all glad about Covid, but I am certainly grateful of the course of events that led me into this beautiful country that even amidst the chaos of 2020, and current conflict with fuel and power, set a a perfect backdrop for an adventure and a budget traveler. 

Here's my go to advice and tips for anyone who wants to visit Lebanon:

                        

The Airport

• I have been to over 50 countries at this point all over the world, and I don't know if Covid is to blame, but for travelers I must warn getting into Beirut was fairly easy and normal, getting out was VERY difficult. First have a plan to get to the airport and a backup plan due to the gas shortage. I had a driver I met on a tour and backup was Uber or a hotel to call me a cab as my sim ran out of data.
• Get there massively early. My flight was 4am. I left the hotel at midnight, its only a 15 minute ride (and this was only because the curfew from Covid made traffic easy), and I literally had minutes to spare before boarding. The flight attendants told me people are routinely missing their flights. There's not much to exit customs or Covid things leaving, I think it's from lack of staff and the other issues hurting the country rather than exit customs. I seriously would leave five hours early. Hang out in the lounge, bring a book, whatever. Just don't miss your flight. 

Gas, Currency, and Electricity Issues During My Stay

     I had an amazing time in Lebanon, and am totally grateful, but it would be wrong not to note the things going on during my time there, which hopefully will resolve soon.

• Gasoline: At the time of writing Lebanon is currently experiencing a huge gas shortage, why? I'm not gonna get political, but rather we will skip that and address how it affects us as travelers. Just plan ahead and have a back up plan. If you have a driver, also have uber and vice versa. Any day excursions keep a good amount of cash, say $100, in case your driver runs out of gas and you need another way back to Beirut. 
• Currency, this was the first time I dealt with issues regarding currency exchange. Google and my currency app weren't jiving at the first restaurant I went to... I was trying to figure out why a beer and hamburger listed as a special was $125? The apps and internet are not up to date on currency. Get on TripAdvisor before you go or talk to a local, while there find a trusted source once you know the exchange, IE your Airbnb host, or tour guide (another thing Zingy Ride helped me with!) and have them help you. Exchange a good amount up front, but ration it out towards the end as the currency won't go far when you leave Lebanon.  And don't worry when you go back to the airport all drivers will take dollars.
• Electricity, since the explosion the grid has suffered and is in dire repair. It's not uncommon for the power to go out multiple times a day, for people working in offices on computers, or heaven forbid some hospitals, this is chaotic beyond belief. As budget travelers, just be mindful of things you normally don't think about, can you take the stairs rather than elevator? Don't postpone recharging devices while you still can, etc. Also be really careful where you are eating, I'd recommend against sea food.

Hotel, Airbnb, or Hostel

• I put hostel for the sake of noting it, but unless you want to meet people and have the hostel community experience there will be no need. Beirut is a budget traveler's paradise. I carefully looked at hotels and Airbnb's and the prices were all amazing.
• For the first time in my travel life I booked a business Hotel. The Gefinor Rotana in the heart of Beirut. I decided I wanted a hotel with amenities I normally wouldn't care for, a cool rooftop bar with pool, restaurants, gym, cafe, breakfast, etc. This hotel in my country would have cost me anywhere from $400 to $1,000 a night. In Beirut it was about $100 a night.
• I figured amenities were a safe bet in case things got difficult with transportation or electricity issues. Normally i'd love to workout in a local gym, check out a local beach/bar/dining, all of which except the gym I would end up doing, but it was nice to know it was all right there if issues arose. 
• Airbnb had plenty of deals as well, but with the conflict of fuel and electricity going on I wanted to have resources if needed, i.e. Hotel Staff.
• Downtown Beirut, Hamra, and Mar Mikhael are all great neighborhoods to stay in and really close enough that it won't make much of a difference, a 5 minute Uber or long walk will get you through all of them.

Tours

     I couldn't have done this trip without Zingy Ride, I found them through a recommendation on TripAdvisor and it was worth it weight in gold! You can of course self tour, as I most time prefer, but driving in Beirut with a rental car is risky to say the least, and public transport is not very good. So I opted for the tour. Here are the tours I did and what I thought:

• Paragliding: It was day two morning one of my first time in Lebanon, I was a little jet lagged but local coffee had me perked up to start the day by running off a mountain with a parachute, AKA paragliding! This is something I wanted to do for a long time and it's a fraction of what you would pay in the USA for it. It's an amazing start to the trip to see Beirut from way above flying over the city! My big tip here would be to book it early in your trip if it's important, because if weather issues come you may need to reschedule.
  
      
  
  
• Jetta Grotto - Harissa - Byblos: Jetta Grotto is no doubt one of the most amazing places you will see in nature. The colors, the smell, and the feel is just not something a photo can recreate, only the memory will be able to.
  
   
  
  Harissa was amazing to see the sight of Our Lady Of Harissa and you will also see some Cedars of Lebanon up on the mountain, the national tree and flag.
  
   
  
  Byblos was great for old castles and the old souk, and a bonus as soon as we were done my guide brought me to a beach within walking distance for a quick dip in the ocean. This was August and that dip was well needed!
  
                
  
  
• Baalbek - Anjar - Ksara: I did this tour the following day, archaeologically speaking this one was a lot more interesting! We drove along the Syrian border to Baalbeck and Anjar.
  
                         
  
  Baalbek and Anjar are not only ancient but we learned that archaeologists that were actually there are digging even further as the ancient ruins are sitting on top of even more ancient ruins! Bring a good camera for this one. 
  
   
  
  
  
  
  
  After the ancient castles we went to Beirut's oldest winery. They gave us a video lesson on the history of it and wine in Beirut followed by a tour of the caves where the wine is made and stored. And of course plenty of samples at the end to try. 
  
  
• Aaqoura Lakes – Baatara Waterfall – Batroun: I wouldn't say this tour was a total bust, but in retrospect I think I should have booked a different waterfall tour, and an unpredictable road closure also cut us out of Aaquora Lakes. So if you are thinking about it, check the best seasons for waterflow, road closures if you can find out, or if you are short on time, I would more highly recommendone of the other tours mentioned. 

Baatara Waterfall in the dry season!

• City Day (self tour): My last full day I decided on self touring downtown Beirut, the blast site to pay homage, and the Beirut National Museum. Have a quick game plan to get around, I decided to Uber to the museum and walk my way backwards.
  
  The tourism industry is hurting so the museum was fairly empty the day I went. It's one of the best things to do in the city so make sure you plan appropriately to make it there.
  
    
  
  After the museum I made a short walk to Martyr's Square, good for a quick photo. You will also see in this area many buildings still damaged from the blast.
  
   
  
  A short walk further to the French built down town area, and of course the "I Love Beirut" sign.
  
   
  
  And a longer walk to Hamra for Pigeon Rock, grab a beer next door!
  
   
  
  

Dining and Nightlife

First of many epic meals

     Beirut is famous for it's night life in the middle east, but unfortunately most of the large venues are still closed from the explosion, but the nights do indeed go on. While you weren't able to dance in a large rave or anything like that, small bars and clubs, little dive bars, pool parties, ocean front wine bars, and rooftop places were a plenty to explore the city nightlife. Your money goes far on both dining and drinks so splurge more than you would at home. 

   Dining equally was on point, but I must say I was already a fan of middle eastern food so my opinion was a little biased.... Also had delicious Italian in this hole in the wall I found while getting lost wandering the neighborhood. 

The People

Pool Partying in Beirut

    The people in Beirut have no doubt suffered a lot of tragedy in the last year. From the lives lost, the billions of dollars in damage, to the still collapsed infrastructure today. But as with all trips, it's the people that still make the world go around, not the corporations or the governments. The women were in the old shops baking Lebanese treats, the men repairing the foundations of buildings to restore them to their former glory, the kids playing on the beach, some maybe unaware of the grade of the tragedy just one year ago. 

     Being in the middle of this I feel like I was treated amazingly. The warm receptions and friendliness for a town that suffered so much was stunning to me. You are eating in a restaurant of a building next to another building that collapsed, or having a beer in a bar during a black out, where as soon as the power comes on the music continues and the drinks continue to flow. While this country has suffered tragedy, the people nevertheless persist on, and the people while they will never forget their past day August 4th, they also will never let it define their future. 

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