Saturday, November 8, 2025

1 Month In Colombia

   

      The first time was 2009, Cartagena, the 2nd Bogota, Medellin, and a side trip to Guatape for New Year's 2015, then 2025 came, it was time to go back. 2009 I could mumble some basic Spanish, it was my first time traveling to South America, I had no friends in Colombia, and really I was new at international travel in general. Fast forward 16 years, I've been all over the world, speak fluent Spanish, travel with multiple passports, I know the streets better, I know the world better.... At least I think I do.... Maybe we all think we do, but then the world can always surprise us! But all that aside, that first trip to Colombia was one of those trips that was significant in my travel life. It opened the doors to beautiful South America. Now, I don't know how many times now I have been to South America. I do know that I have been to every country in South America except Venezuela (yet), and I'm currently working on getting a rentista, nomad, or pensionado visa for Argentina, so needless to say, I like this place. It all started with Colombia. So it was time, long overdue, to go back.

Colombia 2009, my first time in South America!

     Since those early travel days of not knowing anyone I since met some great friends in Colombia and had to of course visit them. I also wanted to revisit some places, and to explore new corners, oh, and completely unplanned bonus, it was during Carnival, so I of course added Barranquila. So the month looked like this...

1 week in Medellín
1 week in Cali
5 days in Baranquila
1 week in Bogota

Medellín

      Medellín was the biggest change from my prior trips to Colombia, and honestly a bit disappointing. Medellín in 2015 was an untouched land, super super cheap prices, a bit touristy but not too much, a bit dodgy, but safe if you were street smart, and very Colombian. Fast forward 16 years... I exit my taxi to my Airbnb, I'm hungry and walk out around 8pm to get some food.... The whole block as I walk past restaurants, all I hear is English. The little Colombian restaurants we dined at have been replaced by giant hamburger joints and "New York Pizza". Don't get me wrong, I love hamburgers, and I love New York Pizza, but I was missing the Colombia I knew. For context, this was almost all in El Poblado, the main tourist area.

                

   The nightlife scene was over flooded with expats, prostitutes, scammers, and expensive drinks, I live in Scottsdale, AZ and at some of the bars the prices damn near paralleled what I pay in Scottsdale. The food wasn't as good. The scene was different... But I too was different. The Joe that went in 2009 probably would have been thrilled, "They speak English everywhere!", "Hamburgers were great!" etc. So that being said, I totally agree with the people that live there. If I worked in 
Medellín, I would have done exactly the same thing. It's a great way for a once poor city to make money and come out of poverty and hard times.


     The good, it was fun paragliding over the city. As much as I complained one paragraph ago about western influence, credit cards were now widely accepted, the gyms were way better, as were supermarkets. And the core that was there and still is was great. Laureles and Envigado were huge pluses. Laureles wasn't quite the Medellín from many years ago, but definitely didn't feel like I was in Times Square either. Envigado was also a super chill neighborhood I went to twice. Its the type of place that would be tranquil to live in, but could get boring after awhile. The fine line to cross, when it goes from boring to too touristic!

                              


Barranquilla


                         

     The next stop on the Colombia tour was Barranquilla. I had never been but definitely met a few friends from there over the years. It's not the best city in Colombia but we had a good time there. It's small as far as the tourist things to do. But that being said it was fun and easy to get around, seeing some crazy buildings, meeting friends there, exploring the city, spending time on the pier, and of course Carnival was all a great time.




      Carnival, Rio is the big one, but Barranquilla did not disappoint! For starters we came into the game late, booking hotels less than a month before and getting tickets to the parade the same day. We didn't go to see Shakira but for last minute plans we had a blast, the parade was fun followed by the night out after. Don't wear your favorite clothes because you will get the celebration powder on you!

     I also really enjoyed the rooftops of Barranquilla. It's a more humble part of Colombia, great people, great food, bad humidity, but good times.


                         


Bogotá

          

     Bogotá was a repeat, sort of. The first time was in 2015, but I had arrived late after being stuck in the Dallas Airport terminal for 2 days during a horrific storm. So Bogotá Part 1 was rushed. Bogotá Part 2 was much more tranquil. My Colombian sister Martha lives there, shout out to you if you are reading this! A friend for over 15 years now, she guided us through the first time, and no doubt helped on the second. Travel is always better with locals, and even better if they are friends.

     


I bought some clothes and a pet to mask in with the locals!

      Parts of Bogotá remind me immensely of New York City where I grew up. I enjoyed those parts minus the traffic and rain, I also enjoyed where I stayed in La Candeleria, although in retrospect, Chapinero would be my recommendation for future Bogotá travelers as La Candeleria by night was not the safest place.Chapinero zero problems. But during the day La Candeleria was amazing, a step into Colombian history, museums, coffee shops, and so much good food!     

      We also set out to the country side one day. This was my last day in Colombia. I can't tell you where we went, I don't remember, and I wasn't driving. I can tell you it was beautiful to escape the city and spend time with my friends in nature. My flight was at midnight so things weren't rushed. We got back to Bogotá, and they dropped me off at the airport. I was truly sad to leave this beautiful country behind for the 3rd time, but also know I was blessed to have visited 3x. So it was time to say goodbye yet again... But wait.... that was good bye to Colombia, not the end of this article.                                             


CALI
                                 I wanted something else on this trip. A new experience, a less traveled road... I talked so some friends on language forums and was recommended to look into Cali. There's a reason I saved this for last. Of the 6 cities I have been to in Colombia, Cali is my favorite. Not by far, but its my favorite. The normal tourist things, the churches, the river, parque de los perros y los gatos, futbol games, and of course a deep dive into the capital of salsa dancing were all amazing. But I more felt like the place could be called home.
                      

      The gyms were great, very important for my daily life. The city is big, but not too big. The main street of the Granada neighborhood was perfect for nightlife. San Antonio for history. Food! Not just Colombian food, other world cuisine. I liked the unique vibe and flavor. Christ The Redeemer, almost as big as the one in Brazil, but much easier to visit as I have had the honor to see both. Night time, again, to be honest, not the safest place. I may live here one day. But it would be during my 40s, not so sure about the 50s. By day I explored many neighborhoods and loved em. By night it was 50/50. Especially on weekdays.




     But the friends I had there were very warm hearted. The strangers I did talk to were kind. The weather wasn't as good as Medellin, but 2nd best of all the cities I've been to there. And very very affordable. I remember sitting in a futbol bar, without my friends, just enjoying a beer, and watching the game, and thinking.... This is a city I need to come back to.

             

      2009 was a long time ago. I have to thank my friend also named Joe for introducing me to this country. It was his idea to go to Cartagena that I agreed to reluctantly at the last minute. Who would have thought I'd be writing about it 16 years and 4 visits later, yes 4! I actually got stuck there on a flight delay for a day 2 months ago and had breakfast with Martha. This country always amazes me, it always shows me something new, in the country, and in myself. When the plane takes off on certain countries, I sometimes reflect and think... This was a great place, but I'll never be back... I hope I never say that leaving Colombia.

2009 First time meeting a sloth!

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